In August 2007, I wrote a long post (see part 1 of this series) detailing all the different ideas I'd try out to reduce unsightly algae growth in my aquariums.
The conclusion to this series is long overdue. The reason it took me so long to finish writing about this is partly because the algae in my aquariums has been under control and has remained easily manageable.
I moved on from trying to control algae to actually enjoying my planted aquariums.
An Explanation
Out of all the things I tried, only a few seem to work well on a constant basis. One of the key elements is to find a method that is manageable on a day-to-day basis. That means polishing water, sticking Willow branches in the water or doing periodic blackouts is out of the question. Of course, these things may be of value given some circumstances, but resolving my algae problem involved finding something I could reproduce with same repeatable expected results. The following observations are not meant as sweeping statements, but rather a list of things that work in my aquariums.
Here's What I Found
PPS-Pro: This liquid fertilization method works. It's a recipe of different fertilizers. They are in proportional amounts to each other and mixed in a pure water solution. Doses are added to the aquarium every morning just before lights turn on. The dosage amount is an approximation. It is an overdose of sorts, to make sure the proper amount is given. At the end of the week, a partial water change nullifies any overdose. More info on PPS-Pro can be found on this web page.
CO2: I always added Carbon Dioxide to my aquariums but I am not convinced it was being mixed thoroughly with the water. I source my CO2 from yeast bottles. These are just recycled cola bottles in which I mix sugar, yeast and water. The mix ferments and releases CO2 through a valve glued to the cap of the bottle. The key change here is that the tube no longer feeds a bubble counter, but feeds into a CO2 reactor. The reactor is just a small pump and a vortex chamber that swirls water with CO2. Water is mixed thoroughly well and released into the aquarium. Some worry that yeast bottles do not produce a constant amount of CO2. This can be adjusted. I use two bottles per aquarium and change the mix on a weekly rotation.
Light: It seems to me, and also from what I read, that most aquatic plants need bright light. Of course, some species like Crypts need less light, but in general, bright lights are good. I changed my store-bought light fixtures to custom made fixtures. Why? I didn't want to pay upward of 300$ for plant growth fixtures, so I made my own for a few dollars. I inserted very bright 30 Watt, 2000 lumens, 64000K full spectrum bulbs in these fixtures and the rest is history.
RO Water: I no longer add well water or city water to my aquariums. The only water I use is reverse osmosis purified water from a Kent Maxxima RO filter. The device is expensive it provides almost 100% pure water with no impurities to speak of. I don't have to worry about water chemistry so much anymore because I know what goes into my aquariums.
Filtration: I don't really worry about this aspect. These are planted aquariums therefore, I only need a bit of mechanical filtration. I never use chemical filtration because this could removed important plant nutrients from the water. Biological filtration has never been a worry because as the tank ages, nitrifying bacteria eventually find their way in the tank and handle this aspect on their own. Therefore, I use Whisper hang on filters of appropriate size and change the filter pads every week or as needed. No mulm accumulation in my aquariums.
Other Additives
Every weekend, after a 40 to 50% water change, I add Tetra's EasyBalance. I like this product because it sets the PH around 6.5. It also contains Nitraban which is supposed to help control Nitrate. In reality, my PH is always around 6. It never surpasses 6.5 and never goes below 5.5. Fish and plants are happy.
I also add Tetra's Blackwater Extract. For some reason, I suspect fish and plants like this stuff. For one thing, Red Platies appear to be brighter in color. I also believe Cabomba carolinia likes this additive. Some think Blackwater tinges the water too much and prevents light penetration. I'm sure that's true to some extent but my tanks are so brightly lit that a bit of tea colored water doesn't affect plant growth.
I also add what's known as Barley Straw extract. This liquid has apparently been tested to reduce some types of algae. I've also used a product called AlgaeFix but in combination with the other additives, it produces temporary turbidity. I am currently not using it to see if I get more algae without it.
Before and After Pictures
With all this said, here are before and after pictures. The timespan between pictures is about 1 month. Judge the results for yourself. I may not be a good aquascaping artist, but for now, I have the growth aspect mastered at least.
BEFORE: 10 Gallon Aquarium
AFTER: 10 Gallon Aquarium
BEFORE: 35 Gallon Aquarium
AFTER: 35 Gallon Aquarium
Chemistry, parameters, and maintenance of my Aquariums
- Daily PPS-Pro liquid fertilization.
- 100% reverse osmosis (RO) water.
- Do-it-yourself C02: Yeast bottles.
- CO2 Reactor to mix CO2 with water efficiently.
- Custom light fixtures: Bright to very bright light.
- Rich substrate: Combination of EcoComplete, soil, clay, laterite, flint, gravel.
- As many plants as can fit in the tank.
- No more than 1 inch of fish per gallon.
- 50% water change every weekend.
- Tetra EasyBalance with water change.
- Tetra BlackwaterExtract with water change.
- Barley Straw Extract with water change.
- AlgaeFix with water change. (I no longer use this product)
My aquariums are kept clean and well-maintained with weekly water changes and plant pruning. Nevertheless, fine particles, diatoms possibly, and algae slowly but surely accumulate on the front glass. Removing this film is a snap with the Mag Float Magnetic Glass Cleaners. 
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