Aquarium Gardening Notes

Hydrocotyle leucocephala

I received Hydrocotyle leucocephala from aquariumplants.com yesterday. So it took a week to arrive. Not bad.

The three bunches were all much larger than I expected. That's perfectly fine. They're healthy. I introduced the plants to a 20 gallon tank from which I had recently uprooted three large Amazon swords.

The picture in this article shows some of the new Hydrocotyle leucocephala planted in my 35 gallon tall aquarium. It makes a nice centerpiece as it stands almost 1.5 feet tall. Click picture for a larger view.

Roots appear on every node. Perhaps this plants prefers to creep along the bottom, but there isn't enough room for this at the moment.

The leucocephala is different in that the leaf stems are not as long as those found on pictures of Hydrocotyle verticillata. If you look closely at the leaf structure in the photograph, notice that the leaf stem between the leaf and the branch is very short. Compare this to verticillata.

In every photo, verticillata grows similar leaf structures but on longer stems. The branches are usually covered in the substrate, leaving interesting umbrella-like shapes floating on to of small stems. I'm not going to get that effect with leaucocephala at the moment, but I can't wait to see how the plant develops in my aquariums.

Hydrocotyle verticillata

I'm interested in trying Hydrocotyle verticillata AKA Marsh Pennywort or AKA Whorled Pennywort. I googled about tonight and couldn't find online stores that have it in stock. If you have this plant in your aquarium and could spare a few, please write me a note.

For now, I settled on Hydrocotyle leucocephala AKA Brazilian Pennywort. I found it in stock on AquariumPlants.com. This would be my first purchase from this aquarium plant store.

Leucocephala looks just as nice as verticillata from the few pictures I found on the net.

It's supposed to be a tough, fast-growing plant. It should contrast nicely with the other types of plants I already have in my aquaria.

Notes from the plant dealer advise to not shade with taller plants. It is apparently also very difficult to find or is substituted with undesirables.

Java Moss

I'm absolutely thrilled with Java Moss. Well, that's an exaggeration but yes, I do like this plant quite a bit. I acquired a few samples of it online and from a local pet store.

The plant usually comes rooted to bog wood or rocks. The online purchased specimen wasn't attached to anything. It looked like a large puff of green hair. I ripped it into several bunches.

The plant is doing very well in all my aquariums. Pictured here, it is shown growing on the water intake of a large Whisper filter. Click image to enlarge.

Several months ago, I wrapped the Java Moss on the Whisper's intake tube. Now, it has started to attach itself somehow, and grow out of the aquarium, up along the filter's tube itself. The plant remains wet because there's plenty of absorption from the water outlet of the filter.

I've attached my Java Moss to plastic tubes using string and affixed it to aquarium walls in some cases, using suction cups. It seems to do very well this way.

My aquariums are doused with very bright light. I use 100% RO water. My PH is always acidic and KH is at a minimum. The plant grows well under these conditions. I'll soon have to start pruning the current specimens. Fish (Platy mostly) love to graze the plant. They don't bring any visible harm to it, except perhaps keeping its growth under control.

The Java Moss is shown here towering up a large Whisper filter intake tube. The plant is growing lovely at the deeper end as well. However, the plant is more prolific at the water surface, where light penetration is at its best. Since this aquarium remains clean, I have not had to remove the intake tube. The plant has not obstructed water from flowing into the filter.

I've also noticed that Java Moss will grow off the bottom of the aquarium. Over time, snippets from the attached specimens have fallen to the bottom and have continued to grow down there. The only problem with this is that the moss might overtake other bottom plants such as Four Leaf Clover and small grasses. I will keep an eye on it in that respect.

My Current Plant List

Here is a list of plants that are currently growing in my aquariums. I've been wanting to inventory my entire plant stock for some time. So here it is...The list also includes plants I've been able to grow but no longer have in my possession.

All these are currently in my three aquariums, except for the Riccia, which was cramped out by Java moss, and the Baby Tears. The Baby Tears died off when I dismantled my 10 gallon tank. They did not survive the new tank setup.

With each plant, I also list the current growth status. That is, whether or not it's doing well in my tanks.

Picture on left shows Water Lettuce covering the entire water surface. It's shown here infesting an otherwise lifeless tank on the basement floor. The tank contained aged aquarium water and a bit of dirt and gravel for substrate. Nothing else. I left them fester in there for almost two months before I decided to clean the tank and put it back to good use.

Legend:

Prolific: The plant grows very well in my tanks and needs constant trimming.
Moderate: The plant is healthy but needs very little pruning.
Low: Plant grows slowly or does poorly in my tanks.

Plant List (in alphabetical order):

Alternanthera reineckii: Moderate
Anubias barteri: Low to moderate
Anubia hastifolia: Moderate
Aponogeton (Miscelaneous): Low to Moderate to Prolific due to a period of rest.
Bacopa monnieri (Dwarf Bacopa): Moderate
Cabomba carolinia: Prolific
Cryptocoryne flaccidifolia: Low to moderate
Cryptocoryne wendtii (Red Wendtii): Low to moderate
Echinodorus amazonicus (Amazon sword): Prolific
Echinodorus barthii & uruguayensis hybrid (Kleiner Bar Sword): Moderate
Echinodorus Rubin (Red Rubin Sword): Moderate
Eleocharis acicularis (Dwarf Hairgrass): Moderate
Hemiantbus callitricboides (Dwarf Baby Tears): Low
Hygrophila roseanerva (Pink Hygrophila polysperma): Prolific
Java Moss: Moderate to Prolific
Lemnaceae (Duckweed): Prolific
Lilaeopsis brasiliensis (Brazilian Micro Sword): Moderate
Ludwigia inclinata: Prolific
Ludwigia repens (Red Ludwigia): Prolific
Marlisea quadrifolia (Four Leaf Clover): Moderate
Micranthemum umbrosum (Baby Tears): Prolific (No longer in my tanks)
Microsorum pteropus (Java Fern): Low
*Mystery plant: Moderate
Nymphaea zenkeri (Red Tiger Lotus): Prolific
Nymphoides aquatica (Banana Plant): Moderate
Nymphoides indica: Prolific
Pistia stratiotes (Water Lettuce): Prolific
Proserpinaca palustris: Low
Riccia fluitans: low (No longer in my tanks)
Rotala Indica: Moderate
Rotala Magenta: Moderate
Sagittaria subulata (Narrow Leaf Sag): Moderate

* The mystery plant is a cutting I received from the plant exchange at the Aquarium Gardener's club. I forgot what they told me it was...As soon as it's healthy and large enough (if it survives), I'll try to identify it.

Cabomba carolinia

This post is the text of a presentation I prepared for the Madison Aquarium Gardener's Club. It was given on September 26th 2007. My knowledge and experiences growing Cabomba have already changed since I wrote the text. For example, I am currently growing Cabomba directly rooted in indoors potting soil. In the text that follows, I explain that I was previously unable to grow Cabomba rooted in rich substrate media because the plant would quickly rot from the bottom upward. This may very well still be the case under certain conditions. Understand that I am in no way trying to make dogmatic statements on how to grow this marvelous plant.

Cabomba carolinia

Note: This text is meant to share my own experience growing this plant in my aquariums. I’m definitely not saying that this is the only way to grow plants. No sweeping statements intended here. However, because of the difficulties I’ve had with growing Cabomba, I am happy to share these thoughts with the group and hope it helps others in their quest to grow lush aquarium plants.

As far as I know, the plant presented in this text is a Cabomba carolinia. The plant is also known as a

Carolina

fanwort or simply “green” Cabomba.

Cabomba carolinia is usually sold in rootless bunches. It is totally aquatic and has been reported to grow to depths of 3 meters. It has also been reported to grow as long as five meters. There are several species of Cabomba, namely C. aquatica, C. carolinia, C. furcata, C. haynesii and C. palaeformis.

Carolinia differs in coloration from Cabomba pulcherrima in that the carolinia is made up of dark green or brownish leaves hooked onto reddish or brownish stems. Pulcherrima is almost entirely red or rust-collored.

The feathery fan leaves of the Cabomba are not directly hooked onto the plant. Each leaf has a distinct stem. Each leaf hooks on opposite sides of the plant’s stem.

This is a US-native plant that has now reportedly infested waterways in parts of

Australia

through the aquarium hobby.

My Captivation

I chose to grow Cabomba carolinia in my aquariums because of its stunning appearance. My first impression of Cabomba bunches is that they would make lovely thick underwater forests in my aquariums.

Unfortunately, the plant did not remain thick and beautiful in my care. That’s why I am all the more interested in it. It presents a challenge! With time and patience, I managed to figure out ways to successfully keep and grow it.

Cabomba Tips

First, some of the frustrating problems I experienced keeping Cabomba: (These are not meant as sweeping statements but they are my own experience with the plants.)

1. Pruning stems eventually stops the root stock from making new shoots. The plant weakens from being trimmed and eventually dies.

2. Planting cuttings into rich substrate such as potting soil or EcoComplete decomposes the plant from the bottom up. Usually, the stems in the store look very healthy, but close observation usually reveals that the bottom of the stems have already started to decompose.

3. Even plant plugs and seemingly anything organic touching the bottom end of the stem rots the stem.

I've had some but limited success planting Cabomba Carolinia in large epoxy-coated gravel. The plant manages to root itself in epoxy gravel before the stem rots away. It then grows several feet long if left untrimmed but weakens quickly if trimmed back more than twice.

Currently I'm having much success growing Cabomba in an aquarium with EcoComplete, 100% RO Water, PPS-Pro fertilization, Blackwater Extract, AlgaeFix, CO2 injection, Barley straw and bright light.

 

The trick is for the plant to produce roots

before it completely rots away

from the bottom up.

 

What I did is that instead of planting the Cabomba shoots into the substrate, I weighted the shoots down with plant weights being careful not to squeeze or crush the stems. The stems grew a foot so far on top of their initial height and are still growing.

I also attached Cabomba to the filter intake tube with a garbage bag tie-wrap. I was very careful not to crush the stems at the base. The shoots do not touch the substrate. They produce long 3 inch hair-like roots and new shoots pop up from the original shoots at the leaf base.

It's really great to finally have healthy Cabomba carolinia. I have six healthy shoots and 6 baby shoots starting to grow. Perhaps I will have enough of it to share with the club in a month or so. I'd be really proud of that.

Additives, Ferts and Parameters

Here’s a list of additives, fertilizers and parameters I use in my aquariums. Some of this has made all the difference in growing Cabomba.

Substrate: Ecocomplete and red flint. I cover this with a very thin layer of a more attractive aquarium gravel.

Bright light: Cabomba loves bright like. In lower light, it will still grow but the stem will be longer and the leaves will be further apart. I use 30 watt full spectrum 6400K, 2000 lumens compact fluorescent bulbs from 1000bulbs.com. Catalog code FC30-FEIIS30W65.

Filter: Large Whisper hang-on. I find these filters to be dependable, quiet, easy to clean and a best value for performance to price.

RO Water: I use 100% RO water. I saved up and purchased my own Kent Maxxima. This produces very soft water with a conductivity near 0.00. My water’s alkalinity buffer is so low that my DIY CO2 makes the PH fluctuate quite a bit on days where I add fresh yeast. I try to keep my PH above 6 and below 7.

PPS-Pro: The two main components that have greatly improved the growth in my aquariums is RO water and PPS-Pro. Here’s the recipe I use to make and dose liquid PPS-Pro fertilizers.

Macro Solution

In 1 liter bottle:

59 grams K2SO4 (Potassium Sulfate)

65 grams KNO3 (Potassium Nitrate)

6 grams KH2PO4 (Mono Potassium Phosphate)

41 grams MgSO4 (Magnesium Sulfate)

Fill with distilled water and shake well. Let sit overnight.

Micro Solution

In 1 liter bottle:

80 grams of CSM+B or equivalent trace element mix

Fill with distilled water and shake well. Let sit overnight.

Dose 1 ml of each solution per ten gallons of tank size. Dose prior to lights turning on.

Interested hobbyists can find more information on this here:

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/pps-analysis-feedback/39491-newbie-guide-pps-pro.html

Interested hobbyists can purchase the ingredients here:

http://www.aquariumfertilizer.com/

I also add the following substances upon every weekly water change: Tetra’s BlackwaterExtract, Tetra’s EasyBalance and AlgaeFix as directed.

Barley Straw: I am currently experimenting with Barley Straw and Barley Straw extracts for reducing algae. My main aquarium has significantly less algae since I started dosing the above additives, fertilizers and parameters.

 

Pictures

A few pictures of my own aquariums at the time of presentation. Click on picture to enlarge.

Here, a few strands of Cabomba carolinia are tied to the Whisper filter intake. The shorts strands are shown here after a period of growth.

The second picture shows the same puny little strands when they were first tied to the filter intake, in their original size.

As of November 2007, I have many bunches of Cabomba growing in two aquariums. They all came from the same strands. I regularly prune them and replant whenever there's room. I have also donated some to club members and hope to be able to continue to do so.

Nymphoides indica

It appears that the Nymphoides plant I received at the club's plant exchange is a Nymphoides "indica". I compared the profiles of indica, cordata, peltata and cristata and found that the indica is the closest one in appearance.

UPDATE: A friend commented that the indica's leaves reach 20 cm in diameter. The Nymphoides in my tank are much smaller. If you believe you know the correct name for the Nymphoides pictured here, please let me know. Nevertheless, as far as I can see, this is an indica.

The plant grows long tubular stems with one flat leaf per stem. The stems grow more than two feet in my aquarium until the leaf reaches the surface and floats horizontally. The largest leaf so far is about 1.5 inches across. It's shaped in the form of a heart, thus the common name Floating Hearts. Leaves have a solid light green color. I don't see much variation from this solid color. A bit of rust color, but that's about it.

I compared the specimen in my possession to photos on the Internet.

Cordata for instance, has a light green color in the center and a darker periphery color. The indica though, has a solid color all across.

Peltata is also different in that the outer edge of the leaves is ridged. It's not smooth-like, but made up of segments from what I can see on photos. It doesn't have the distinct heart shape of the indica.

The cristata has a dark brown color throughout its floating leaves. Only the central part or edge of veines of the leaf remains light green. Plant specimens I have in my aquarium do not show this color variation. Furthermore, the leaves reach the surface and are pelted with bright light, but remain solid light green.

One week after adding Nymphoides indica in my aquarium, I can say that it is doing well. It grows new tubular stems almost daily. The first new shoots were weaker than the established leaves, but today, a recent shoot shows stamina. The stem is thicker and the leaf is larger. Perhaps the plant has started to take up nutrients from the substrate.

Photo on left shows a new shoot from the Nymphoides indica. The stem is thick and the undeveloped leaf is much larger than the leaves that came up during the transition period. To me, that's an indication that the plant might no longer be running on nutrient reserves, but might already have established itself enough to take nutrients from the aquarium. Notice from previous posts that I did wash off all the substrate media in which the plants came in. I stuck the plant's roots in the tank's substrate, which is primarily made up of EcoComplete.

Compare this post's picture with the aquarium picture from the post of August 30th and see how fast the indica has grown, to reach the surface in matter of days.

At any rate, it's a beautiful addition to my aquarium.

Picture on left appears very green. This is more a problem with my camera than what may appear as an algal bloom. In fact, the aquarium is quite clear this week. I have been dosing with PPS-Pro successfully. The Water Wysteria responded with fast growth. Notice the other Hygro in the right back corner. This is the pink kind. It's been growing very fast since I started dosing PPS-Pro. I'll have more to say about these things in my next post on controlling algae.

Riccia fluitans

Crystalwort was a disappointment. I purchased a healthy specimen in a Madison pet store. It was already anchored to a rock using fish line. The Riccia was also intertwined in Java Moss. Within a few days of sinking it snuggly in the forefront of the aquarium, the plant simply turned a pale shade of beige and practically vanished from view. The few dead-like pieces that remain are camouflaged under a carpet of Java moss, which incidentally, is very healthy and growing fast.

I understand this plant is a light hungry undemanding floating rootless plant. It needs to be anchored to something otherwise it grows floating on the surface of the water. Other species: Riccia rhenana.

So what happened to mine? I have no idea. Perhaps the intense light is too much for it? Not likely. Everything I read on this plant says it loves bright light. Was it the PH fluctuations? My PH went from 7.8 to 6.1 in one day while  I was experimenting. Did that do it in? I assume the very acidic water had something to do with this. I'll try again when my parameters are stable.